Table of Contents
Serifos arrives on the ferry from Piraeus as a single, almost forbidding image: a brown rocky dome rising steeply from the sea, a white cluster of houses on the summit, a few fishing boats in the harbour below. It looks severe. It looks like there might be nothing to do here at all. Then you get off the ferry, walk ten minutes, and understand why Athenians have been coming here quietly for decades and telling almost nobody.
Here's what they're not telling you. The island is small enough — 75 sq km — to explore entirely in a week, and strange enough to fill that week without repeating a single day. The Chora is one of the great hilltop villages of the Cyclades, and the sunset from its ruined Kastro is the best free experience in the islands. The beaches, at last count, number 74 — and the finest of them touch no road, reachable only by boat. And then there are the mines: a ghost coast of rusting ore cranes and collapsed tunnels at Megalo Livadi, where in 1916 four workers were shot dead in a strike that changed Greek labour law forever. No other Cycladic island carries this much weight.
So this is not a list of postcards. It's a working guide to the best things to do, see, and eat in Serifos, built on real time on the island and cross-checked with the four other Greeks on our team. From guided mine tunnels to RIB charters and the Sunday-morning revithada ritual, the experiences that make this island unforgettable reward travellers who arrive curious and stay a few days. Vague recommendations don't help anyone plan — these will.
Planning the whole trip, not just the days out? Our complete Serifos travel guide covers ferries, when to go, how many days you need, and how it all fits together.
For context in the western Cyclades, see our Sifnos guide, our Folegandros guide, and our Milos guide.
The 8 best things to do in Serifos, at a glance
- Climb to Chora and the Kastro for the finest free sunset in the western Cyclades.
- Swim at Psili Ammos, the island's signature pale-sand bay.
- Charter a RIB to the hidden northern coves and the Kalo Ampeli shipwreck.
- Explore the 1916 iron mines at Megalo Livadi — Greece's first great labour uprising.
- Collect Sunday revithada from the Chora bakery — chickpeas baked overnight in a wood oven.
- Hike the kalderimi from Livadi to Chora, or on to the fortress-like Taxiarches Monastery.
- Photograph Agios Sostis, the little white church above its own beach.
- Taste Cycladic wine at Chrysoloras Winery in the hills above Platys Gialos.
Each is covered in detail below.
Chora: The Hilltop Capital
Type: Village walking, architecture, views, history
Time needed: 2–4 hours on foot; longer if you stay for sunset and dinner
Access: 15-minute walk from Livadi (steep, around 200 steps), or by bus (2 min)
Cost: Free
Best time: Morning before 11am, or evening from 6pm; avoid midday heat in July–August
The ascent to Chora from Livadi is the defining experience of Serifos. The path — a kalderimi of stone steps cut into the hillside — takes about 20 minutes on foot and delivers you, breathless, into a village that operates entirely on its own terms. The main square, shaded by a tamarind tree and ringed by a handful of café-bars, opens onto a view of the Aegean that is one of the finest in the Cyclades. The whitewashed cube houses, the blue-domed church of Agios Athanasios, the ruined windmill sails on the ridge above — it is all exactly as it should be.
The Kastro above the village proper is a 10-minute walk further uphill. What remains of the Venetian fortification is mostly wall, but the position is extraordinary: a complete 360-degree panorama over the island's brown mountains, the port and bay below, and — on clear days — the dark silhouettes of Kythnos to the north, Sifnos to the southeast, and Milos beyond it. The best sunset in the Cyclades costs nothing and is up here.
The Archaeological Museum in Chora is small but worth the time: a collection of sculptures, amphorae, and architectural fragments from classical and hellenistic Serifos, including several pieces from a sanctuary of the Nymphs. The Folklore Museum, in an old house nearby, holds tools, textiles, and photographs from the mining era. Together they take about an hour.
Good to know: The Chora square has several café-bars serving coffee, drinks, and light food. For dinner, the terraced tavernas with views over Livadi and the sea are among the most atmospheric dining spots in the western Cyclades. The bus from Livadi runs every 30–60 minutes in season and drops at the main square. The uphill walk is steep — flat, grip-soled shoes are essential.
Best for: Everyone; no visit to Serifos is complete without at least an evening in Chora.
Psili Ammos, Livadakia & the Beaches
Type: Beaches, swimming, sunbathing, snorkelling
Time needed: Half day per beach; a full beach circuit by boat covers 6–8 beaches in a day
Access: Livadakia on foot from Livadi (10 min); Psili Ammos by rough road (8km south) or boat; remote beaches by boat only
Cost: Free; beach taverna lunch €15–25 per person
Best time: June–September for swimming; June and September for manageable crowds
Livadakia is the easiest beach on Serifos: a wide, sandy bay immediately east of the port, a 10-minute walk from the ferry landing. It is the most developed beach on the island — tavernas, sun-loungers, and a modest beach bar — and by Cycladic standards it is completely unpretentious. For a quick swim on arrival or departure day, it is perfectly adequate. Most visitors quickly move on to the better beaches further south and west.
Psili Ammos, the island's signature beach, sits at the southeastern tip of Serifos, 8km from Livadi by a rough road that requires a 4WD or ATV in places. The beach itself is exceptional: a wide arc of very fine, pale sand with shallow, warm, extraordinarily clear water. It has a single taverna (one of the best on the island), a small seasonal beach bar, and no pretension of any kind. The water here, at the end of a sheltered bay facing south, gets warm by June and stays warm into October. Come early; by midday in July and August it fills with boats.
The remote beaches — Kalo Ampeli in the north, Ganema and Vagia in the south, Sikamia on the eastern coast, the almost-inaccessible Kentarchos — are accessible only by boat. Kalo Ampeli is where the best sea is: a wide bay of clear water above a WWII shipwreck at 20 metres depth, the ship visible on the right conditions. Ganema is the long sandy beach of the south coast, calm and wide and less visited than it deserves to be. These are the beaches that make Serifos extraordinary, and the best way to access them is a private RIB charter from Livadi.
Good to know: The road to Psili Ammos is rough and narrow — a small hire car struggles in places; an ATV is the island's standard solution. Bring everything you need for the day: water, snacks, sun protection. The taverna at Psili Ammos runs out of fresh fish by early afternoon in peak season. Leave Livadi by 9am to beat the boat arrivals.
Best for: Beach lovers, families, snorkellers, anyone wanting remote unspoilt coves accessible only from the sea.
The Iron Mines of Megalo Livadi
Type: Industrial heritage, history, walking, unusual landscapes
Time needed: 2–3 hours
Distance: 12km from Livadi port (25 minutes by car)
Cost: Free to explore; guided mine tunnel tours on request
Best time: Morning or late afternoon; avoid the full midday sun on the exposed coastal road
Megalo Livadi is the strangest and most compelling place on Serifos. The village sits in a bay on the southwestern coast, sheltered and quiet, with a pebble beach and a taverna that serves excellent fresh fish. What surrounds it is the archaeology of an industry: the rusted iron frameworks of the ore-loading cranes that once transferred iron ore directly onto ships, the remains of the narrow-gauge railway that carried the ore down from the mines in the hills above, the collapsed mine entrances in the hillside, and a small square with a memorial to four workers shot dead by company security forces during the strike of 21 August 1916.
Mining made Serifos rich as far back as the 6th century BC — rich enough to mint its own coins, stamped with a frog, which became the island's emblem and still turns up on local signage today. The iron in these hills has shaped Serifos for 2,500 years; the rusting cranes at Megalo Livadi are just its most recent chapter.
The 1916 Serifos Miners' Strike was the first significant labour uprising in modern Greek history. Workers in the Italian-owned mines had endured conditions that killed hundreds over decades: no safety measures, no ventilation, wages paid partly in scrip, housing in overcrowded barracks. When they struck for better conditions, the company brought in armed guards who opened fire on the crowd assembled in the main square. The four who died are commemorated by name on the monument. The event reverberates in Greek labour history with the same weight that Haymarket has in American history.
The underground mine tunnels extend beneath much of the island — a system of galleries that cuts through the entire ridge and exits on different beaches on the opposite coast. Local operators offer guided underground tours through the accessible sections, an experience that is genuinely unlike anything available on any other Cycladic island. Contact the Serifos Scuba Divers centre in Livadi, who organise mine tunnel explorations alongside their water-based activities.
Good to know: The drive from Livadi to Megalo Livadi is beautiful — the road skirts the south coast above a series of bays — but the road surface is rough and narrow in sections; a 4WD or ATV is the most comfortable option. The taverna in Megalo Livadi is one of the best on the island for lunch; arrive by noon to secure a table with a view of the rusting crane above the bay.
Best for: History lovers, unusual-experience seekers, photographers, anyone interested in the darker chapters of Greek industrial history.
Hiking: The Chora–Kastro Trail & the Monastery Circuit
Type: Hiking, walking, nature, religious heritage
Time needed: 2–4 hours for the Chora circuit; full day for the monastery circuit
Starting point: Livadi or Chora
Cost: Free
Best time: April–June and September–October; avoid hiking in full summer heat
Serifos has a well-developed network of waymarked paths that connect the main villages, the monastery, and the beaches. The island's stone-paved kalderimi tracks survive in reasonable condition and the terrain — bare rock hillsides, dry-stone walls, the occasional juniper — has a stark beauty that feels quite unlike the forested mountain trails of northern Greek islands.
The most popular walk is the Livadi–Chora kalderimi, the direct stone-stepped path that ascends the hillside from the port to the capital. Allow 20–25 minutes uphill (longer in heat), 15 minutes downhill. Most people take the bus up and walk down; the descent gives the best views of the bay below. Above the Kastro, continue along the ridge northeast and you reach a series of windmill ruins with views over the northern coast — a 40-minute extension that very few visitors make.
The Monastery of Taxiarches (dedicated to the Archangels Michael and Gabriel) is the most impressive religious building on Serifos, and one of the most unusual in the Cyclades. Built in the 16th century in the village of Galani, 8km from Livadi, it is constructed like a small fortress: walls nearly 10 metres high, a single entrance, built to resist the pirate raids that plagued the Aegean for centuries. The interior church has excellent frescoes and the monastery kept an extraordinary library of manuscripts, most of which were transferred to Athens in the 19th century. The combined walk from Chora to the Monastery via the northern ridge takes about 3 hours one way; most visitors drive to Galani and walk the final approach on foot.
Good to know: Take water on any walk — there are no sources on the trails and the sun is merciless in summer. The kalderimi path from Livadi to Chora is uneven in places and requires flat, closed-toe shoes. The Monastery of Taxiarches is open to visitors in the morning only; dress codes apply (shoulders and knees covered). The monastery's caretaker occasionally serves visitors coffee in the courtyard, which is one of Serifos's most specific pleasures.
Best for: Hikers, walkers, history lovers, photographers.
Serifos Food Culture: Revithada, Fennel Fritters & Fresh Fish
Type: Local gastronomy, food culture, dining
Time needed: Evenings; Sunday mornings for revithada
Cost: Main courses €12–20; excellent value by Cycladic standards
Best time: Year-round; most atmospheric September–October
The food culture of Serifos is built around three things, none of which you find at the same quality anywhere else. The first is revithada — chickpeas baked overnight in a clay pot in the baker's wood-fired oven, emerging on Sunday mornings as a slow-cooked dish of extraordinary depth, seasoned with nothing but olive oil, lemon, onion, and salt. It is made the same way across the small Cyclades (Sifnos claims it, Serifos does it better) and the Sunday morning ritual of collecting your pot from the bakery in Chora is one of the most specifically Greek food experiences available anywhere in the islands.
The second is marathotiganites — wild fennel fritters, made with foraged fennel, flour, egg, and olive oil, fried crisp and served hot. Found in the tavernas of Chora and on the Livadi waterfront, they are the island's signature starter and the kind of thing that makes you re-evaluate how good simple cooking can be. The third is the fish: Serifos is small enough that most of its tavernas still serve genuinely local catch, and the fishing boats in Livadi harbour supply the restaurants directly.
Chrysoloras Winery, a small organic producer in the hills above Platys Gialos beach, has been making white wines from local varieties since 2018. The vineyard offers tastings and is worth a stop for anyone interested in the emerging Cycladic wine scene — dry whites made from Asyrtiko and local varietals that pair naturally with the island's seafood.
Good to know: The best tavernas in Chora are on the square and on the terraced streets below it; avoid anything on the main road descending to Livadi. In Livadi, the fish restaurants on the waterfront are the island's most social dining spots. Ask what arrived that morning — the daily specials board is more reliable than any permanent menu. Sunday revithada is available at the Chora bakery from around 8am; arrive early, it sells out.
Best for: Food lovers, couples, anyone wanting an authentic Cycladic dining experience without Mykonos prices.
Boat Trips & Water Experiences: Exploring the Coastline
Type: Boat trips, private charter, snorkelling, swimming, coastal exploration
Time needed: Half day or full day
Departure: Livadi harbour
Cost: Private RIB charter from ~€200 half day; ~€350 full day (up to 6 people); group boat trips from ~€60 per person
Best time: June–September; check the meltemi forecast before booking (strong winds close operations)
If you do only one thing on the water in Serifos, make it a boat trip — it's the single best of all the experiences the island offers. The coastline is dramatically varied — sheer limestone cliffs in the north, long sandy bays in the south, sea caves at Aspros Pyrgos, and the eerie mine-crane silhouettes at Megalo Livadi — and large sections of it are reachable only from the sea. A private RIB charter from Livadi, with an experienced skipper who knows the currents and the sea-cave entrances, unlocks the version of Serifos that stays completely unknown to road-based visitors.
A half-day north circuit visits Kalo Ampeli (the best beach for snorkelling, above a WWII wreck lying at 20 metres), the sea caves near Aspros Pyrgos, and swimming stops in coves that have no names on any map. A full-day south circuit adds Ganema Beach, the mine crane at Megalo Livadi seen from the water, Sikamia's rocky swimming cove, and the wild southeastern cape near Psili Ammos. Both circuits can be customised on the day depending on wind direction — the experienced skippers always know where the flat water is.
Boat charters aren't the only water activities worth booking. Serifos Scuba Divers, based in Livadi, run guided snorkelling and diving trips over the same clear waters and reefs — a good option for families or anyone who wants a more structured experience than a swim stop. Between the RIB charters, the snorkelling, and the sea-cave swims, the coast is where Serifos delivers its most memorable experiences, and it rewards travellers who build at least one water day into the trip.
The meltemi wind, which blows from the north throughout July and August, hits the north coast hardest and can cancel excursions at short notice. Booking in June or September dramatically improves the odds of a calm sea day. Full-day charters in the south of the island are more sheltered from the meltemi than north-coast routes.
Good to know: The Tan Cruisers operator (Technohull RIBs) is the most established private charter on Serifos, with consistent reviews on TripAdvisor and GYG. Book 24–48 hours ahead in July–August. The half-day north option is the best value for first-timers; the full-day south circuit is the more spectacular coastline. Ask the skipper about the Kalo Ampeli shipwreck visibility — conditions vary significantly by day.
Best for: Couples, families with older children, groups, snorkellers, and any traveller who wants the Serifos most people never see.
Book the Private RIB Cruise around Serifos — Half or Full Day on GetYourGuide
Practical Information
Getting to Serifos
Serifos has no airport. All access is by ferry from Piraeus (the main port of Athens). Conventional ferries take 4.5–5 hours (Seajet/Blue Star lines, from €25–38 one-way). High-speed catamarans take 2.5–3 hours (from €50–65). Ferries from Piraeus typically stop at Kythnos before Serifos; some continue to Sifnos, Milos, and Folegandros beyond. In summer, inter-island connections link Serifos to Sifnos (30 minutes), Milos (1.5 hours), and Kythnos (1 hour). Schedules are significantly reduced October–April.
For ferries, transfers and flights, see the complete Serifos travel guide
Getting around
Serifos is small enough that a combination of bus, hire car/ATV, and boat covers everything. The bus runs between Livadi and Chora every 30–60 minutes in season (€2). Car and ATV rental is available at Livadi port from several agencies; an ATV is the island's default transport for accessing rough roads to remote beaches and the southern circuit. No taxis operate on the island. Bring cash — several petrol stations and smaller businesses are card-only in theory but cash-preferred in practice.
Best Time to Visit
June is the sweet spot: the sea is warm enough to swim, the island is not yet crowded, the wildflowers are fading and the light is extraordinary. July–August is peak season — every boat in the harbour is occupied, accommodation requires booking months ahead, and the meltemi can ground boats for several days at a stretch. September is excellent: warm sea, emptying accommodation, lower prices, revithada still being made on Sundays. April–May is quiet and green after the winter rains; some tavernas are not yet open. November–March sees most of the island close except for a handful of year-round residents.
Where to Stay
Livadi has the widest range of accommodation, from boutique seafront hotels to simple studios, and is the practical base for beach days and boat trips. Chora has a small number of houses converted into rental properties; staying up here, with the square and the stars and the view, is one of the finer accommodation experiences in the western Cyclades. Book by March for July–August; the island has limited capacity and fills early.
For searching accomodation, see our best hotels in Serifos article.
Staying connected: Non-EU visitors face high roaming charges on Greek networks. Activate a Yesim eSIM before you fly — instant setup, no physical SIM, works the moment your plane lands in Greece.
Plan Your Trip
- Things to Do in Sifnos — the most celebrated neighbour, 30 minutes south by ferry, with exceptional food and pottery culture
- Things to Do in Folegandros — the other great under-the-radar western Cyclades island, known for its Chora clifftop drama
- Things to Do in Milos — the volcanic island with Sarakiniko and 70+ beaches, 1.5 hours south
Written by
Athens-born engineer · Coordinates a 5-expert Greek team · 50+ years combined field experience
I write every article on this site drawing on real, first-hand expertise — mine and that of four colleagues who live and work across Greece daily: a Peloponnese tour operator, a transfer specialist across Athens, Mykonos & Santorini, a Cretan hotel owner, and a Northern Greece hotel supplier. Nothing here comes from a single visit or desk research.
Informed by 5 Greek experts
Every destination we cover has been visited and vetted by at least one team member — not for a review, but as part of their daily work in Greek tourism.