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Spetses is the island Athenians pick when they want Greece without the traffic. Visitor cars aren't allowed, so the soundtrack in town is horse hooves, scooters and the hydrofoil horn, and the whole island is a two-hour fast ferry from Piraeus or a ten-minute boat ride from the mainland at Kosta.
It is small, about 22 km² with a 25 km ring road and some 3,700 year-round residents, but it carries more history than islands ten times its size. Spetses raised the flag of the Greek Revolution on 3 April 1821, its sea captain Laskarina Bouboulina became the war's most famous commander, and the Poseidonion Grand Hotel, opened in 1914, still anchors the waterfront in Dapia. John Fowles taught at the island's Anargyrios and Korgialenios School in the early 1950s and turned Spetses into Phraxos, the island of The Magus.
I've visited Spetses four times over the past decade, and this guide is built from those trips plus our team's local checks: how to get here from Athens, how to get around without a car, which beaches are worth the scooter ride, and where to stay and eat once you've arrived.
Why Visit Spetses
Spetses is less than half Hydra's size, around 22 km² against 50 km², but it has the beaches Hydra lacks. Hydra is mostly rock and ladders into deep water; Spetses has a mix of sand and fine pebble at Agia Marina, Agioi Anargyroi, Kaiki and Zogeria, so you can walk into the sea without water shoes.
If it's the rocky coastline and the total vehicle ban you're curious about, our complete guide to Hydra, Greece covers the neighbour an hour up the coast — and the Hydra–Spetses crossing takes about 40 minutes if you want both.
The island's naval history runs deeper than most Greek destinations. Spetses was the first Greek territory to raise the revolutionary flag against Ottoman rule in 1821. That's not just a plaque on a wall—it shaped everything from the architecture to the local mentality you'll encounter today.
The other half of the Spetses story is its Edwardian glamour. Sotirios Anargyros, a Spetses-born tobacco magnate, opened the Poseidonion Grand Hotel in 1914, planted the pine forests that still cover the island's interior and founded the Anargyrios and Korgialenios School.
The school is where John Fowles taught English from 1951 to 1953, and the island became Phraxos in The Magus: the pines, the villas and the hotel terrace are all recognisable if you read it before you go. The Poseidonion was restored and reopened in 2009, and its terrace restaurant, On the Verandah, faces the Dapia waterfront.
Beyond the history, the car-free policy creates experiences you won't find elsewhere in the Greek islands. Restaurant patios extend right to the street because there's no traffic to worry about. Kids play football in what would be parking lots on other islands. You can walk anywhere at night without watching for vehicles.
Perfect for: Couples seeking romance, families with kids, anyone wanting genuine relaxation, history enthusiasts, beach lovers who prefer variety
Skip if: You need extensive nightlife, want remote wilderness experiences, prefer ultra-budget travel
Quick Facts / At a Glance
- Best time to visit: May-June, September-October
- How many days needed: 3-5 days
- Budget estimate: €80-200 per day
- Getting there: fast ferry from Piraeus (about 2 to 2.5 hours), or drive about 2.5 to 3 hours to Kosta and cross by boat in 10 minutes
- Cars: no visitor cars; scooters, quads, e-bikes, bicycles, taxis, water taxis and a summer bus instead
- Size: about 22 km², roughly 3,700 residents, 25 km ring road
Best Time to Visit
Spring (April-May): Perfect weather with temperatures around 20-25°C. Most hotels and restaurants open by April, though some beach bars might still be closed. I prefer late May—everything's operational, wildflowers are blooming, and you'll often have beaches to yourself.
Summer (June-August): Peak season brings temperatures up to 35°C and crowds from Athens. Hotel prices double, restaurant reservations become essential, and the ferry gets packed on weekends. The upside? Every beach bar is buzzing, and the evening atmosphere in town is electric.
Fall (September-October): My personal favorite time. The sea is warmest (perfect for swimming), crowds thin out dramatically after mid-September, but weather stays gorgeous through October. Many consider this the secret season.
Plan around the calendar if you can. The Spetsathlon triathlon fills the island in mid-May; the Armata festival runs for roughly two weeks from late August and ends on a Saturday in mid-September (12 September in 2026) with the burning of a replica Ottoman flagship in the harbour; and the Spetses Mini Marathon takes over the first weekend of October. Book rooms months ahead for all three.
Winter (November-March): Most tourist facilities close, ferry service reduces significantly, but if you're after solitude and don't mind limited dining options, winter has its charm. Just don't expect beach weather.
How to Get to Spetses from Athens
Can You Fly to Spetses?
No. Spetses has no airport, so you fly into Athens International Airport and continue by sea. Private helicopter transfers from Athens do exist for those with the budget, but for everyone else the choice is a fast ferry from Piraeus or the drive to Kosta.
By ferry from Piraeus: every boat on this route is a high-speed catamaran; there is no conventional car ferry to Spetses. The fastest direct sailings take about 1 hour 40 minutes, while boats that stop at Aegina, Poros and Hydra take 2.5 hours or more. Adult one-way fares run roughly €38 to €55 depending on operator and seat.
Three companies run the route: Hellenic Seaways (Flyingcat and Aero Highspeed boats, sold through Blue Star Ferries), Alpha Lines (seasonal, roughly March to October) and Magic Sea Ferries. These are foot-passenger boats, so you can't bring a car or motorbike, and summer weekend departures from Piraeus sell out, so book a few days ahead.
Check schedules on FerryScanner—departure times change seasonally.
Pro tip: The Athens: Ferry Journey Between Athens and Spetses Island includes skip-the-line access and costs €55, which is worth it during busy periods.
Driving to Spetses via Kosta
If you have a hire car, drive to Kosta on the Peloponnese coast, about 2.5 to 3 hours from Athens via Corinth and Epidaurus. Leave the car in one of the car parks there and cross on the small ferry (10 to 15 minutes) or a water taxi (5 to 10 minutes, around €30 to €35 per boat for up to eight people). This is the route most Athenians use on summer weekends, and it's the only sensible way to fit a car into the plan: you rent on the mainland, not on Spetses.
Water taxis also run to Spetses from Porto Heli and Ermioni, which is handy if you're combining the island with a Peloponnese road trip through Nafplio or Epidaurus.
Where to Stay in Spetses
Best Areas
Spetses Town (Dapia): The main port and commercial center wraps around a horseshoe-shaped harbor. You'll be walking distance from restaurants, shops, and the water taxi to beaches. Can get lively on summer evenings, but that's part of the charm.
Old Harbor (Baltiza): Quieter residential area about 15 minutes' walk from the center. More expensive, but you get traditional architecture and peaceful mornings. Perfect if you want to feel like a local.
Kounoupitsa: The quieter western end of town, ten to fifteen minutes' walk from Dapia, with Patralis and the other fish tavernas on the waterfront and smaller rooms at lower prices.
Agia Marina and Agios Mamas: Pick these for beach-first stays. Agios Mamas is the town beach, while Agia Marina is about 2 km east, with beach bars and the summer bus back to town.
Mid-Range (€120-200)
Sailor's Nautical Concept brings a maritime theme to life without being cheesy: clean lines, nautical blues and modern rooms, on the edge of town about 1.5 km from the harbour, and good value by Spetses standards.
Hotel Roumani sits close to the harbour in Dapia. The breakfast terrace has harbour views, and the staff know the island inside out.
Klimis Hotel might be the best mid-range choice for location: right on the harbour, with a prime spot for people-watching and zero commute to restaurants.
Splurge Options (€200+)
Kastro Hotel sits in the heart of Spetses Town in a traditional building, with rooms that blend period features and modern comfort.
Economou Mansion is genuine mansion living: period furnishings, personal service and only a handful of rooms, so book early.
Mare Monte Luxury Suites is the splurge: modern suites a few minutes' walk above Agios Mamas beach, with sea views and five-star service if budget isn't a concern.
Much of Spetses' accommodation is villas and apartments rather than hotels, especially in the pine-covered hills outside town. For a family or a group of friends in July and August, a villa with a pool often costs less per person than two or three hotel rooms. Check the distance to town before you book, though: without a car you'll rely on scooters or taxis for every dinner.
The hotels above are the ones we'd book on a mid-range to comfortable budget. For the island's grand dame, the Poseidonion Grand Hotel, plus Orloff Resort, Nissia Traditional Residences and the rest of our shortlist, see our guide to the best hotels in Spetses.
Find hotels in Spetses on Booking.com, or compare prices on Agoda for the best deal.
Spetses Highlights: What Not to Miss
This is the short version. For the full list, with the Old Harbour boatyards, the Dapia waterfront and every beach reachable by water taxi, see our guide to things to do in Spetses.
Explore Spetses Town by Carriage
The horse-drawn carriages wait on the squares in Dapia and still work as transport, not just a photo prop. They stick to the town roads between Kounoupitsa, Dapia and the Old Harbour rather than looping the island, so think of them as a slow, scenic taxi; agree the fare with the driver before you climb in. The drivers know stories you won't find in guidebooks, like which mansion belonged to which shipping family.
Take a Boat Trip Around the Island
Spetses Island Boat Exploration ΖΩΗ e-kaiki offers 5-hour private group excursions for €300. The route includes swimming stops at secluded beaches and coastal caves you can't reach by land.
Visit the Laskarina Bouboulina Museum
Bouboulina was a female naval commander during the Greek War of Independence, which was unheard of in the 1820s. Her family mansion near Dapia is still owned by her descendants and can only be seen on a guided tour of about 40 minutes, with tours roughly every half hour in the morning and early evening. Tickets are €6 for adults, and the museum opens from late March to late October.
See the Spetses Museum
The Spetses Museum fills the 1790s mansion of Hatzigiannis Mexis, a shipowner and the island's first governor, with ship figureheads, revolutionary-era weapons and the casket holding Bouboulina's bones. It's a quick, cheap visit at €4, best done in the morning, and it closes on Tuesdays.
Beach Hop to Agia Marina
Agia Marina is the island's most organised beach: sand, clear water, sunbeds and beach bars, about 2 km east of Dapia. Walk it in 25 minutes, ride a scooter or take the summer bus. Water taxis go too, but they're priced per boat, so they only make sense for a group.
Swim at Agioi Anargyroi Beach
My favourite beach on the island, on the far south-west coast about 12 km from town. Pine trees run almost to the water, the bay is sheltered, and a simple taverna does lunch. Get there by scooter or quad, on the summer bus, or by water taxi if you're splitting the fare.
Explore the Bekiri Cave
Bekiris Cave sits on the edge of Agioi Anargyroi bay, reached by a short path through the pines from the beach or by boat. The entrance is low, so you swim in, and inside the light on the water turns blue. Island legend says the women and children of Spetses hid here during an Ottoman raid. Bring goggles and a torch.
Walk the Coastal Path to Lighthouse
Walk east from Dapia past the Old Harbour boatyards to the lighthouse at Baltiza, built in 1831 and one of the oldest in Greece, with the small chapel of Panagia Armata beside it. It takes about 45 minutes on foot and is mostly flat, and the view back across the harbour at sunset is the reason to time it for late afternoon. Bring water.
Swim Beyond Agia Marina: Kaiki, Zogeria, Xylokeriza and Vrellos
Kaiki, a 20-minute walk west of town below the old school, is the closest good swim and has a beach club. Zogeria, on the north-west tip, is a pebbled cove at the end of a dirt track through the pines, with a taverna and some of the clearest water on the island. Xylokeriza on the south coast, about 8 km from Dapia, is quieter and wilder. Vrellos sits at the bottom of a pine-filled valley and is where the summer party crowd heads. All four are easy by scooter; Zogeria and Vrellos are bumpy on a bicycle.
Hike the Pine Forest to Profitis Ilias
Spetses has around a dozen signposted trails through the pine forest Anargyros planted. The classic climbs about 5 km from Vrellos to Profitis Ilias, at 291 m the island's highest point, with views across to the Peloponnese. In summer start early and carry water, as there's nowhere to refill on the way.
Day Trip from Athens or Nafplio
If you can't stay overnight, the Full Day Trip to Spetses from Athens is one of the best-value escapes from the city: one ticket gets you transport, a guided walk through the car-free old town, and real swimming time in water that'll make you forget you were in Athens that morning. Coming from the Peloponnese?
The same trip from Nafplio covers everything for €49, which is almost unreasonably good value for a full day on a Saronic island.
A Private Day on Spetses
If you want the island on your own terms, the Private Day Trip from Athens is worth the extra, at around €150 per person. Ten hours, hotel pickup included, and an itinerary built around what you actually want to see, not a group of 40 people following a flag. I'd book this for a special occasion or if you're travelling with family: the local guide takes you to corners of Spetses that most day-trippers never reach.
Experience the Armata Festival
Armata commemorates the naval battle of 8 September 1822, when the Spetses fleet drove off the Ottoman navy. The festival runs for about two weeks from late August, and on its final Saturday in mid-September (12 September in 2026) a replica Ottoman flagship is set alight in the harbour, with fireworks standing in for cannon fire and the whole waterfront turned into a grandstand. Get to the harbour early for a spot on the rocks, and book your room months ahead.
Where to Eat & Drink
Tarsanas: Right on the Old Harbour, this seafood specialist does the freshest fish on the island. The grilled octopus is exceptional, and the house white pairs perfectly. Fish is priced by the kilo, so ask before you order.
Mourayo: On the Old Harbour waterfront, a more polished take on Greek cooking than a classic taverna, with yachts moored a few metres from the tables. Book ahead for dinner in summer.
Orloff Restaurant: Upscale dining by the Old Harbour. The menu changes seasonally, but the seafood pasta and local spiny lobster are consistently excellent. Reservations are essential in July and August.
Patralis: A fish taverna in Kounoupitsa, run since 1935, with tables on the water and some of the most reliable grilled fish on the island. Order the fish Spetsiota, the island's own baked fish in tomato sauce.
Try the local spoon sweets (preserved fruits) and ask for barrel wine at traditional tavernas—it's often better than the bottled options and costs half the price.
Getting Around Spetses Without a Car
Is Spetses car-free? For visitors, yes: private cars are restricted to permanent residents with permits, taxis and service vehicles, and you can't bring or rent a car on the island. In practice you'll walk around town, then use scooters, quads, e-bikes, taxis, water taxis or the summer bus for the beaches. Town itself is compact: Dapia to the Old Harbour is about 1.5 km, a 20-minute walk.
Can You Rent a Car on Spetses?
No. There is no car hire for visitors on Spetses, and a hire car from Athens has to stay on the mainland at Kosta. If you want a car for the wider trip, to Nafplio, Epidaurus or Monemvasia, rent it in Athens or the Peloponnese, park at Kosta and cross as a foot passenger. On the island, rent a scooter or quad instead.
Scooters, quads and bikes: Rental shops cluster around Dapia. Expect roughly €15 to €25 a day for a 50cc scooter in high season, less in May and October, and more for quads and larger automatics. The 25 km ring road loops the whole island but is hilly in places, so an e-bike beats a regular bicycle for the far beaches. Motorbikes are banned from parts of the seafront road at set hours, so check the signs.
Water taxis: The taxi-boat stand is on the Dapia harbour and boats run around the clock in season. Fares are set per boat, not per person, from a posted price list, so they're good value for a group of four to eight and expensive for one.
Horse-drawn carriages: Useful for short hops between Dapia, Kounoupitsa and the Old Harbour, especially in the heat. Agree the fare before you set off.
Golf carts: Supply is small and changes from season to season, so if you're counting on one, ask your hotel before you arrive. Scooters, quads and e-bikes are the reliable options.
Buses: Two summer bus lines run east and west from town, roughly every 30 minutes in high season, and they're the cheapest way to Agia Marina and the far beaches.
Insider Tips for Spetses
Transportation: Water taxis to beaches fill up quickly on weekends. Consider renting a bicycle for maximum flexibility and access to quieter spots.
Timing: Visit popular beaches before 10am or after 4pm to avoid crowds and harsh midday sun. Restaurants serve lunch until 4pm, dinner starts around 8pm.
Budget: Eat at tavernas in the back streets rather than harbor-front for better prices and often better food. House wine is excellent and costs €8-12 per bottle.
Hidden Gems: Ask locals for their favorite beaches—the best ones often lack signs and aren't in guidebooks. Many require short walks from main paths.
Food: Try the local specialty "amygdalota" (almond cookies) and always sample the house wine. Quality is consistently high across the island.
Accommodation: Book harbor-view rooms well in advance for summer visits. Interior rooms cost 30-40% less and are often quieter.
Sample 3-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival & Harbor Exploration
- Morning: Arrive by ferry, check into accommodation, explore Spetses town on foot
- Lunch: Harbour-front lunch in Dapia, then coffee on the square in front of the Poseidonion
- Afternoon: Visit Bouboulina Museum, walk the harbor promenade
- Evening: Dinner at Tarsanas in the Old Harbour, then a drink at one of the waterfront bars
Day 2: Beaches & Swimming
- Morning: Water taxi to Agia Marina beach, swimming and sun
- Lunch: Beachside taverna at Agia Marina
- Afternoon: Move to Agioi Anargyroi beach for quieter swimming
- Evening: Return to town, carriage tour at sunset, dinner at Orloff Restaurant
Day 3: Island Discovery
- Morning: Rent bicycles, cycle to lighthouse and coastal areas
- Lunch: Picnic lunch or return to town for taverna meal
- Afternoon: Boat trip around the island with swimming stops
- Evening: Final dinner in town, evening stroll before departure
For the nearest Saronic island to Athens, Aegina is a 40-minute ferry — the closest Greek island to the capital, with the Temple of Aphaia and the island's legendary pistachios
Budget Breakdown
For more detailed budget planning across Greece, check out our guide on How Much Does a Greece Trip Cost: Complete Budget Guide.
Final Thoughts
Spetses succeeds because it doesn't try too hard. The car-free policy could feel gimmicky, but instead creates genuine tranquility. The beaches offer variety without overwhelming choice. The history feels present but not overwhelming.
I keep returning because Spetses delivers that increasingly rare travel experience: you can actually relax. No traffic noise means you'll sleep better. Walking everywhere means you'll discover unexpected corners. The pace of life slows to match the horse-drawn carriages.
If you're planning a broader Greek adventure, Spetses works beautifully as part of a Greece Itinerary 7 Days: Perfect Week-Long Adventure or extended Greece Itinerary 10 Days: The Ultimate Journey.
Planning the details? Our guides to the best hotels in Spetses and the best things to do in Spetses go deeper than this overview.
The island isn't perfect—it can feel small after a few days, and costs run higher than less accessible destinations. But for a long weekend escape that actually feels like an escape, few Greek islands do it better.
Ready to plan your perfect Greek adventure? Try our AI Greek Trip Planner to create a personalized itinerary based on your preferences, travel style, and available time.
Written by
Athens-born engineer · Coordinates a 5-expert Greek team · 50+ years combined field experience
I write every article on this site drawing on real, first-hand expertise — mine and that of four colleagues who live and work across Greece daily: a Peloponnese tour operator, a transfer specialist across Athens, Mykonos & Santorini, a Cretan hotel owner, and a Northern Greece hotel supplier. Nothing here comes from a single visit or desk research.
Informed by 5 Greek experts
Every destination we cover has been visited and vetted by at least one team member — not for a review, but as part of their daily work in Greek tourism.