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Anafi's defining landmark isn't just a cliff — it's Kalamos, the second-largest monolith in Europe after Gibraltar. At 460 metres, this sheer rock formation rises from the sea on the island's southeastern coast, and has been doing so since before the ancient Greeks built a temple to Apollo at its base.
The Monastery of Panagia Kalamiotissa — the church that replaced that temple — sits at the summit, accessible by a trail that takes 50–75 minutes to climb. On clear days from the top, you can see Santorini, Ios, and Crete simultaneously.
That comparison to Gibraltar is not marketing language — it's geography. Kalamos is a genuine landmark on a European scale that most people outside Greece have never heard of, sitting on an island of 250 permanent residents that most people outside Greece have never visited. That combination is essentially the argument for going.
Why Visit Anafi
Anafi preserves the kind of raw, natural beauty that made the Greek islands famous before mass tourism arrived. The landscape here shifts dramatically from golden beaches with impossibly blue water to rugged mountains dotted with ancient ruins. Unlike many Cycladic islands, development remains minimal—you'll find traditional villages where locals still gather in the plateia each evening.
The hiking here rivals anywhere in Greece. Beyond the famous monastery trail, paths wind through valleys filled with wild herbs, past Byzantine ruins, and along clifftops with views that stretch across the southern Aegean. The beaches offer soft sand and crystal-clear water without the crowds you'll battle elsewhere.
What strikes me most about Anafi is the pace of life. Tavernas don't rush you. Locals have time for conversations. The island operates on its own rhythm, one that encourages you to slow down and actually relax.
Perfect for: Hikers, beach lovers, couples seeking romance, anyone wanting authentic Greek culture, photographers, travelers who prefer discovery over convenience
Skip if: You need nightlife, luxury amenities, lots of dining options, or struggle with basic accommodations
Quick Facts / At a Glance
- Best time to visit: May-June, September-October
- How many days needed: 3-5 days
- Budget estimate: €45-90 per day
- Getting there: Ferry from Santorini (1 hour) or Piraeus (7-8 hours)
Best Time to Visit
Spring (April-May): Perfect hiking weather with temperatures around 20-25°C. Wildflowers bloom across the mountains, and the sea is swimmable by late April. Most accommodations and tavernas open by Easter. Ferries run less frequently but crowds are minimal.
Summer (June-August): Peak season brings reliable ferry connections and guaranteed sunshine, but temperatures can hit 35°C. July and August see the most visitors, though "crowded" on Anafi means maybe 20 people on the main beach. Book accommodation early as options are limited.
Fall (September-October): My favorite time to visit. The sea remains warm from summer, crowds disappear after mid-September, and hiking becomes pleasant again. October offers stunning light for photography and the grape harvest adds color to the landscape.
September 8 — Feast of the Virgin Mary (Panagia Kalamiotissa): The most significant annual event on Anafi. Locals carry the icon of the Virgin Mary from the Zoodochos Pigi Monastery at the base of Kalamos up the steep path to Kalamiotissa at the summit, where an all-night vigil and feast are held. The procession, the music, and the setting — torchlight on the face of the monolith, the Aegean below — make this one of the most atmospheric religious festivals in the Cyclades. Visiting Anafi specifically for September 8 is increasingly popular among travelers who know about it. If you're in the area, plan accordingly.
Winter (November-March): Most accommodations close, ferry service becomes sporadic, and strong winds can make the island feel isolated. Only visit if you're seeking complete solitude and don't mind basic facilities.
How to Get to Anafi
By Air: Anafi has no airport. The closest is Santorini (Thira), 45 minutes by ferry.
By Ferry: The most common route is via Santorini—take a flight to Santorini, then connect to Anafi. Ferries run 4-5 times weekly in summer, 2-3 times in shoulder season.
Anafi runs just 4–5 sailings a week in summer (fewer in shoulder season), so timing is everything — check what actually sails on your dates via Ferryscanner and book both legs, including your return, before the boats fill.
From Piraeus (Athens): SeaJets operates direct service 3-4 times weekly in summer. Journey takes 7-8 hours and costs €45-65 depending on season and cabin type.
From Santorini: Small ferries run year-round, taking 60-90 minutes. Summer service includes morning and afternoon departures. Tickets cost €15-25.
Where to Stay in Anafi
Best Areas
Hora (Main Village): The island's capital sits on a hillside 3km from the port. Most accommodation concentrates here, along with the few shops and tavernas. Choose this for convenience and village atmosphere.
Klisidi Beach Area: A handful of rooms and studios sit directly on or near the main beach. Perfect for beach lovers but dining options are extremely limited.
Near the Port: A few guesthouses offer easy ferry access but little atmosphere. Best for very short stays or late arrivals.
Budget Options (€40-80)
Accommodation on Anafi remains basic but clean. Most properties are family-run pensions or simple studios with kitchenettes. Expect traditional Greek hospitality rather than modern amenities.
Villa Apollon offers basic rooms with sea views and helpful owners who meet ferries. To Petrino provides traditional stone-built accommodation in Hora with a lovely courtyard.
Mid-Range (€80-150)
Anafi Suites delivers the island's most comfortable accommodation—modern studios and apartments with fantastic views. The location in Hora puts you walking distance from tavernas.
Several family-run properties offer upgraded rooms with better bathrooms and air conditioning. Many include breakfast featuring local products.
Splurge Options (€150+)
Luxury options remain limited, which is part of Anafi's charm. A few villas offer private terraces and sea views, but don't expect resort amenities. The splurge here is privacy and views, not fancy facilities.
Things to Do in Anafi
Hike to Panagia Kalamiotissa Monastery
The island's signature experience involves hiking to the clifftop monastery.
The trail begins at the Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi at the base of Kalamos — take the island bus to the end of the southeast route, or drive to the parking area near the monastery. From Zoodochos Pigi, the ascent to Kalamiotissa takes 50–75 minutes for most hikers. The path is steady rather than technical — scrambling over rocks in places but not dangerous. Recently, wooden shade shelters have been added at intervals, providing rest points on the most exposed sections.
Practical: No entrance fee. Bring a minimum of 1.5 litres of water per person — there is no water source on the trail. Start before 9am in July–August to complete the ascent before the sun becomes punishing. The monastery itself is not always open, but the summit views — Santorini, Ios, Sikinos, Folegandros, and on clear days Crete — are the destination regardless.
The 11th-century monastery sits 584 meters above sea level on Kalamos rock. Views stretch across the Aegean to Santorini, Ios, and on clear days, Crete. Visit early morning or late afternoon to avoid midday heat.
The Apollo Connection
The monastery at the top of Kalamos was built on foundations that predate Christianity by a thousand years. The site was originally a Temple of Apollo Aegletes — Apollo of the Radiance — and parts of the original masonry are still visible in the monastery's lower structure. The story behind the temple explains how the island got its name.
According to Greek mythology, the Argonauts were caught in a storm on their way home from Colchis with the Golden Fleece. Facing shipwreck, they prayed to Apollo for deliverance. The god caused the island of Anafi to rise from the sea, offering them shelter — and the island's name derives from this miracle: anafi means "revelation," the island revealed by Apollo. The grateful Argonauts built him a temple at the island's highest point. What you climb today is built on that site.
Explore Klisidi Beach
Anafi's main beach offers soft golden sand and brilliant blue water. The beach stretches for over a kilometer, providing plenty of space even in August. A small taverna serves fresh fish and cold drinks.
The eastern section offers more privacy, while the western end has easier access and some shade. Swimming conditions are excellent—the water stays shallow for a good distance.
Discover Roukounas Beach
This pristine stretch of sand on the island's southern coast requires a 20-minute walk from the road. The effort rewards you with one of the Cyclades' most beautiful beaches—fine sand, turquoise water, and often complete solitude.
Bring water and snacks as no facilities exist. The walk follows a clear path through low hills dotted with ancient ruins.
Visit Ancient Anafi
Scattered ruins dot the island, including remnants of ancient temples and settlements. The most significant site sits near Kastelli, where you'll find walls and pottery fragments dating back 2,500 years.
Local paths connect various archaeological sites, creating an interesting day of exploration for history enthusiasts.
Sea Kayaking Adventure
Island Hopping: Santorini to Anafi offers a unique way to reach the island while exploring hidden coves and beaches accessible only by water. The 10-hour private group experience includes pickup and takes you beyond typical tourist spots.
The Santorini to Anafi island hopping experience (4.8 ⭐) lets you arrive by sea. It is a private island-hopping cruise from Santorini to Anafi, with scenic views, swimming in crystal waters, and onboard Greek cuisine with an open bar for a luxurious and unforgettable experience.
Sunset at Kastelli
The ruins of the medieval castle (Kastelli) provide Anafi's best sunset viewpoint. The 20-minute hike from Hora leads to foundations of a 13th-century fortress with panoramic views.
The sunset here rivals anything in Santorini, minus the crowds and commercialization.
Traditional Village Exploration
Hora maintains authentic Cycladic architecture with white cubic houses and blue-domed churches. Wander the narrow streets to find hidden courtyards, traditional bakehouses, and locals who still gather for evening coffee.
Swimming at Prasies Beach
This small beach on the island's eastern coast offers excellent swimming in protected waters. The approach requires careful navigation on foot, but you're often rewarded with complete privacy.
Crystal-clear water and interesting rock formations make this perfect for snorkeling.
Where to Eat & Drink
Dining options remain intentionally limited—this isn't a foodie destination but rather a place to enjoy simple, fresh Greek cooking.
Anafi specialties: The island has a small but distinctive food identity. Ballothia are handmade pasta, a traditional dish found in few other Cycladic islands. Xerotigana are thin, crisp dough pastries drizzled with honey and sesame or coconut — a sweet typically made for festivals.
Melitera are sweet cheese pies made with local egg and mizithra (fresh ricotta), similar to the Cycladic sweet-cheese tradition but in Anafi's specific form. Saffron bread is baked traditionally here and worth asking about at the village bakery. The local honey and wild capers are exceptional — buy them from the mini-market or directly from the bakery in Hora.
To Steki tou Stratou in Hora serves excellent traditional dishes including fresh fish, grilled meats, and homemade specialties. The owner often explains each dish personally.
Margarita's Taverna near Klisidi Beach offers beachside dining with feet-in-the-sand atmosphere. The grilled octopus and fresh salads perfectly complement a beach day.
Liotrivi provides the most upscale dining experience, featuring creative takes on Greek classics using local ingredients. Reserve ahead in summer.
Local specialties include excellent goat cheese, wild capers, and honey. Many tavernas serve their own wine made from ancient grape varieties.
Getting Around Anafi
Rental Car: The best option for exploring, though roads are basic and some beaches require walking. Several agencies operate from the port and Hora. Reserve ahead in summer as availability is limited.
Bus Service: One bus connects the port, Hora, and major beaches. Service is infrequent—2-3 times daily in summer. Useful for basic transportation but limits flexibility.
Walking: Many attractions are accessible on foot from Hora. The island's small size makes walking feasible, though bring sun protection and water.
Taxi: Limited availability with only 2-3 taxis serving the island. Pre-arrange transfers, especially for ferry connections.
Insider Tips for Anafi
Transportation: Rent a car for maximum flexibility—public transport is limited and many beaches require driving plus walking.
Timing: Visit popular spots early morning (before 10am) or late afternoon to avoid crowds and heat.
The Meltemi: Anafi's northern beaches are exposed to the Meltemi, the strong summer north wind that blows across the Aegean in July–August. When the Meltemi is active, the northern beaches become unusable — sandblasting conditions rather than relaxing swimming. On those days, stick to the southern beaches (Roukounas, Klisidi) which are sheltered. The bus route to the southeast passes Klisidi and continues toward Zoodochos Pigi — check with your accommodation whether north wind is expected before planning your beach day.
Budget: Eat at the taverna in Hora for better prices than beachside spots—quality remains excellent.
Hidden Gems: Ask locals about small beaches and hiking trails—the best spots aren't marked or advertised.
Food: Try the local honey and cheese—production follows traditional methods unchanged for generations.
Ferry Tickets: Book returns when you arrive, especially in July-August when boats can fill up.
Cash: Cash: Credit card acceptance is limited. Anafi has two ATMs — one at the harbour and one at the post office in Chora. Both can run out of cash in peak August weeks; if you're visiting in high summer, bring backup euros as insurance.
Staying connected: Non-EU visitors face high roaming charges on Greek networks. Activate a Yesim eSIM before you fly — instant setup, no physical SIM, works the moment your plane lands in Athens.
Sample 3-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival & Beach Introduction
Morning: Arrive by ferry and check into accommodation in Hora. Grab coffee and pastry at the village bakery while getting oriented.
Afternoon: Head to Klisidi Beach for swimming and lunch at the beachside taverna. Spend time relaxing and adjusting to island pace.
Evening: Dinner at To Steki tou Stratou for authentic local cuisine and conversation with locals.
Day 2: Monastery Hike & Exploration
Morning: Early start for the hike to Panagia Kalamiotissa Monastery. Bring water and snacks for the 2-3 hour round trip adventure.
Lunch: Picnic lunch with supplies from Hora's mini market.
Afternoon: Explore the ruins at Kastelli and rest in the shade.
Evening: Sunset viewing from Kastelli, followed by dinner at Liotrivi.
Day 3: Hidden Beach & Departure Prep
Morning: Hike to Roukounas Beach for pristine swimming and solitude.
Afternoon: Final swim at Klisidi Beach and souvenir shopping in Hora.
Evening: Farewell dinner at Margarita's Taverna before preparing for departure.
Budget Breakdown
Note: Prices include accommodation for two people sharing
Final Thoughts
Anafi won't suit everyone—and that's exactly what makes it special. This isn't a place you visit for luxury or convenience. You come here for authenticity, natural beauty, and the increasingly rare experience of discovering a place before everyone else finds it.
The island challenges you to slow down, to appreciate simple pleasures like a perfect beach or a conversation with a fisherman. It rewards curiosity with hidden trails, pristine swimming spots, and genuine connections with locals who still have time for visitors.
If you're seeking Instagram-perfect smoothies, boutique shopping, or vibrant nightlife, choose elsewhere. But if you want to experience what Greek islands were like before mass tourism transformed them, Anafi delivers something irreplaceable.
Ready to plan your perfect Greek adventure? Try our AI Greek Trip Planner to create a personalized itinerary based on your preferences, travel style, and available time.
Written by
Athens-born engineer · Coordinates a 5-expert Greek team · 50+ years combined field experience
I write every article on this site drawing on real, first-hand expertise — mine and that of four colleagues who live and work across Greece daily: a Peloponnese tour operator, a transfer specialist across Athens, Mykonos & Santorini, a Cretan hotel owner, and a Northern Greece hotel supplier. Nothing here comes from a single visit or desk research.
Informed by 5 Greek experts
Every destination we cover has been visited and vetted by at least one team member — not for a review, but as part of their daily work in Greek tourism.