Table of Contents
The monk seal popped up just 20 meters from our boat, curious and unafraid. My guide smiled. "They trust us here," he said simply.
That moment perfectly captures Alonissos. This is where Greece's only marine national park protects endangered monk seals, where pine forests meet crystal-clear waters, and where you can hike for hours without seeing another soul. I've been three times now, and it still feels like discovering something special.
While other islands chase Instagram fame, Alonissos chose a different path. It's Greece for nature lovers, hikers, and anyone who thinks the best beach is the one where you're the only person there.
Why Visit Alonissos
Alonissos delivers something increasingly rare in the Greek islands: authentic wilderness.
The National Marine Park of Alonissos Northern Sporades surrounds the island with the strictest environmental protections in Greece. You'll spot dolphins regularly, monk seals occasionally, and crowds practically never.
The island split into old and new after a devastating earthquake in 1965. Old Alonissos (Chora) perches dramatically on cliffs, while New Alonissos (Patitiri) handles the practical stuff down at sea level. Both are gorgeous in completely different ways.
Perfect for: Nature enthusiasts, hikers, couples seeking peace, families wanting safe beaches, anyone tired of overcrowded islands
Skip if: You need buzzing nightlife, extensive shopping, or constant entertainment options
The hiking here rivals anywhere in Greece. Underwater visibility often exceeds 40 meters. Beach crowds? What crowds?
Quick Facts
- Best time to visit: May-June and September-October
- How many days needed: 3-5 days
- Budget estimate: €45-120 per day
- Getting there: Ferry from Athens (5 hours) or connecting ferries from other islands
- Population: 2,800 locals who mostly know each other's names
Best Time to Visit Alonissos
Spring (April-May) Perfect hiking weather with temperatures around 20-25°C. Wildflowers everywhere, crystal-clear water for swimming (if you don't mind it being refreshing). Most accommodations open by May, though some restaurants might have limited hours.
I love April here. The island feels like it's waking up from winter, locals are genuinely happy to see visitors, and you'll have beaches to yourself.
Summer (June-August) Peak season brings warmth, long days, and the highest prices. July-August sees temperatures hitting 30°C+ and accommodation costs doubling. The marine park boat trips run daily, but book ahead.
August gets busy by Alonissos standards. "Busy" here means you might share a beach with 20 other people instead of just your partner.
Fall (September-October) My favorite time. Water temperature perfect for swimming, hiking weather ideal, and summer crowds gone. September feels like having a private island with all services still running.
October can be magical but pack layers. Weather turns unpredictable, though when it's good, it's spectacular.
Winter (November-March) Most accommodations close, ferry schedules reduce dramatically. Great for serious hikers and anyone wanting complete solitude, but bring everything you need.
How to Get to Alonissos
By Ferry from Athens The most straightforward route runs from Piraeus to Alonissos via Skiathos and Skopelos. Journey takes about 5 hours total, costing €35-85 depending on season and ferry type.
SeaJets runs the fastest service (4.5 hours) but books up quickly in summer. Anes Ferries takes longer (6+ hours) but costs less and feels more relaxed.
Check ferry schedules on FerryHopper - they change seasonally and weather can disrupt services.
By Air + Ferry Fly to Skiathos (1 hour from Athens), then catch a 90-minute ferry to Alonissos. More expensive but saves 3+ hours. Skyscanner shows the best flight deals.
The Skiathos-Alonissos ferry runs 2-4 times daily in summer, dropping to once daily off-season.
Island Hopping Route From other Sporades islands, regular ferries connect Skiathos-Skopelos-Alonissos. Perfect for island hopping since each has a completely different personality.
Pro tip: Book accommodation before arriving. Options are limited, especially in shoulder seasons.
Where to Stay in Alonissos
Best Areas to Stay
Patitiri (New Alonissos) The port town handles most practical needs - supermarkets, ATMs, ferry tickets, car rental. Lively waterfront with tavernas and cafes. Perfect base for exploring the whole island.
Most accommodations cluster here with easy access to beaches and transport.
Old Alonissos (Chora) Stunning clifftop village with stone houses, incredible sunset views, and zero cars. Romantic but requires walking up steep paths. Limited dining options but maximum atmosphere.
Stay here if you prioritize views over convenience.
Steni Vala Fishing village on the northeast coast, gateway to the marine park. Quieter than Patitiri but still has tavernas and a small harbor. Great for nature lovers.
Mid-Range Options (€80-150)
Hotel Anelli offers solid value at €83/night with an 8.3/10 rating. Central Patitiri location puts you walking distance from the port, supermarkets, and best tavernas.
Rooms are comfortable rather than luxurious, but the owners genuinely care about your experience. Ask for a room facing away from the street for better sleep.
Dolphin Hotel runs €109/night with a 7.7/10 rating. The slightly higher price gets you better amenities and a more polished experience.
Pool area is perfect for afternoon relaxation after hiking or beach time.
Comfort Options (€145-155)
Thea Home Hotel by Booking Kottas at €145/night earned its 8.9/10 rating through excellent service and well-designed rooms. The property feels boutique without boutique pretension.
Location in Patitiri but slightly elevated, so you get harbor views without harbor noise.
Liadromia Hotel represents the island's top accommodation at €152/night. The 9.1/10 rating reflects genuine luxury adapted to island life.
Beautiful pool, exceptional breakfast, and staff who arrange activities without pushing expensive options.
Things to Do in Alonissos
National Marine Park Boat Tours
The Mediterranean's largest marine park surrounds Alonissos with pristine waters and protected wildlife. From Skiathos: Skopelos and Alonissos Boat Trip with Stops offers a full-day experience for €62.
Monk seal sightings happen on about 30% of trips. Dolphins show up more reliably.
The park includes 11 small islands, each with different regulations. Some allow swimming, others protect nesting birds. Guides explain everything without making it feel like school.
Book early morning departures when seas are calmer and wildlife more active.
Hiking the Island Trails
Alonissos offers Greece's best island hiking outside Crete. Over 15 marked trails crisscross the island, from easy coastal walks to challenging mountain routes.
The trail from Old Alonissos to Megali Ammos beach takes 45 minutes through pine forest ending at a gorgeous secluded beach. Start early before the sun gets intense.
My favorite: the lighthouse trail from Gerakas. Two hours round-trip with incredible views over the marine park. Bring water and check weather - it's exposed.
Trail maps available at the port or your hotel. Some paths require sturdy shoes due to loose stones.
Explore Old Alonissos (Chora)
The earthquake-damaged original capital got rebuilt as one of Greece's most beautiful villages. Stone houses cascade down clifftops, narrow alleys reveal hidden courtyards, and every corner offers sea views.
No cars allowed, so it stays peaceful even in peak season.
Visit the small museum explaining the island's history and earthquake recovery. The handicraft shops sell genuine local products rather than Chinese imports.
Evening brings magical light and perfect taverna weather on the terraces.
Beach Hopping by Boat or Car
Rent a car through Discover Cars for maximum beach flexibility. The island's small size (20km long) makes it perfect for exploration.
Kokkinokastro Beach offers the most dramatic scenery - red cliffs meeting turquoise water. The unpaved access road requires careful driving but rewards with near-guaranteed solitude.
Agios Dimitrios combines easy access with excellent swimming and a decent beach taverna.
Leftos Gialos provides the best snorkeling on the south coast, with underwater rock formations and clear water.
Visit Steni Vala Fishing Village
Traditional fishing village turned low-key resort maintains authentic character despite welcoming visitors. The tiny harbor fills with colorful boats, tavernas serve fish caught that morning, and the pace stays decidedly unhurried.
Perfect lunch stop when exploring the northern part of the island.
The Marine Park Information Center here explains local wildlife and conservation efforts. Well done without being overly academic.
Snorkeling and Diving Adventures
Water visibility around Alonissos regularly exceeds 30 meters, some of Greece's clearest. The marine park protection creates abundant sea life.
Triton Dive Center in Patitiri offers PADI courses and guided dives for certified divers. Expect to see octopus, moray eels, and schools of colorful fish.
Snorkeling gear rentals available at several beaches. Kokkinokastro and Chrysi Milia offer the best underwater scenery for snorkelers.
Traditional Cooking Classes
Learn to prepare local specialties like cheese pie (tyropita) and fish soup using traditional methods. Several families offer cooking experiences in their homes.
Classes typically include shopping at local markets, cooking 4-5 dishes, and sharing the meal with wine. Price around €45-60 per person.
Book through your accommodation or ask at tourist information in Patitiri.
Sea Kayaking the Coastline
Paddle the protected coastline with experienced guides who know the best spots for wildlife watching. Half-day tours cost €55-75 including equipment and instruction.
The northeast coast offers the most interesting kayaking with sea caves, secluded beaches, and possible monk seal encounters.
No experience required for the easier tours, though basic swimming ability essential.
Where to Eat & Drink in Alonissos
Must-try local dishes: Fresh fish (especially red mullet), Alonissos cheese pie, local honey, wild oregano that actually grows wild here.
Patitiri waterfront hosts most restaurants. To Kamaki serves the island's best seafood with fish priced by weight and prepared simply. Their grilled octopus deserves its reputation.
Old Alonissos offers Astrovia for romantic dinners with sunset views. Higher prices but unique atmosphere impossible to replicate elsewhere.
Steni Vala features Tassia, where the family catches, prepares, and serves fish the same day. Order whatever they recommend - it's what was swimming yesterday.
Budget eating: Supermarkets in Patitiri stock everything for self-catering. Beach picnics become memorable when you're alone on pristine sand.
Local wine: Try Moraitis winery bottles available at most tavernas. The island also produces excellent olive oil and honey.
Getting Around Alonissos
Car rental provides maximum freedom for beach hopping and exploration. Island roads are generally good, though some beach access requires short unpaved sections.
Discover Cars compares local rental options. Expect €25-35/day in season.
Bus service connects main villages and beaches but runs limited schedules. Fine for reaching popular spots, limiting for spontaneous exploration.
Walking works well within Patitiri and for shorter distances. The port to town center takes 10 minutes maximum.
Taxis available but expensive for regular transport. Airport transfers with Welcome Pickups offer fixed pricing and reliability.
Water taxis serve some beaches during summer, offering scenic transport plus swimming stops.
Insider Tips for Alonissos
- Transportation: Rent a car for maximum flexibility - bus schedules don't accommodate spontaneous beach discoveries
- Timing: Visit popular spots before 10am or after 4pm. Though "crowded" here means 15-20 people
- Budget: Eat at tavernas away from the main waterfront for better prices and often better food
- Hidden Gems: Ask locals about their favorite beaches - several gorgeous spots never appear on tourist maps
- Food: Try local specialties and house wine - small-scale production means surprisingly high quality
Additional tips from my visits:
Pack hiking boots if you plan serious trail exploration. Some paths get steep and rocky.
Bring cash. ATMs exist but cards aren't accepted everywhere, especially at smaller beaches.
Download offline maps. Cell coverage can be spotty in remote areas, though that's part of the charm.
Sample 3-Day Alonissos Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival & Island Introduction
- Morning: Ferry arrival in Patitiri, check into Liadromia Hotel, explore the port town
- Afternoon: Drive to Old Alonissos, wander the stone-paved streets, visit the museum
- Evening: Dinner at Astrovia watching the sunset over the Aegean
Day 2: Marine Park & Beach Discovery
- Morning: Join the From Skiathos: Skopelos and Alonissos Boat Trip with Stops for wildlife watching
- Lunch: Picnic on a secluded beach during the boat tour
- Afternoon: Return and relax at Kokkinokastro Beach
- Evening: Fresh fish dinner at To Kamaki in Patitiri
Day 3: Adventure & Farewell
- Morning: Hike the lighthouse trail from Gerakas village
- Lunch: Drive to Steni Vala for lunch at Tassia
- Afternoon: Final swim at Agios Dimitrios Beach, pack for departure
- Evening: Farewell dinner and early rest before morning ferry
Need help planning your perfect Alonissos itinerary? Try our AI Greek Trip Planner to create a personalized trip based on your preferences.
Budget Breakdown
Category | Budget | Mid-Range | Comfort
Accommodation | €40-60 | €80-120 | €140-160
Food & Drink | €20-30 | €35-50 | €50-70
Transport | €15-25 | €25-35 | €35-50
Activities | €10-20 | €25-40 | €40-60
Daily Total | €85-135 | €165-245 | €265-340
Ferry costs and car rental spread across your stay. Budget travelers can save significantly by self-catering and choosing free hiking over paid boat tours.
Mid-range travelers get the best balance of comfort and authentic experiences. Comfort level adds luxurious accommodation and guided activities without reaching truly expensive territory.
For detailed cost planning across Greece, check our complete budget guide.
Final Thoughts
Alonissos captured my heart because it feels like Greece used to be everywhere. No cruise ship crowds, no Instagram posing spots, no overpriced tourist traps designed to separate you from your euros.
What you get instead: crystal-clear waters protecting endangered wildlife, hiking trails through pine forests, beaches where you're the only footprints in the sand, and locals who remember your name after two days.
It's not perfect for everyone. Nightlife means chatting with locals at waterfront cafes. Shopping means one small supermarket and a few handicraft shops. Entertainment is whatever nature provides that day.
If you're considering Alonissos alongside other Greek destinations, read our guides to the best Greek islands for beaches and food and Greece's best beaches for comparison.
For island hopping itineraries including Alonissos, our 7-day and 10-day Greece itineraries show how to combine multiple destinations effectively.
I keep returning because Alonissos reminds me why I fell in love with Greek islands in the first place. Sometimes the most precious travel experiences happen when you're brave enough to choose the road less photographed.
Ready to plan your perfect Greek adventure? Try our AI Greek Trip Planner to create a personalized itinerary based on your preferences, travel style, and available time.