@layer engine{.phead{padding-block:clamp(32px,5vw,64px) 28px}.crumb{color:var(--c-muted);flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;font-size:.88rem;display:flex}.crumb a{font-weight:600;text-decoration:none}.crumb a:hover{color:var(--c-text-action)}.phead h1{max-width:22ch;margin-top:18px;font-size:clamp(2.2rem,4.6vw,3.9rem)}.phead .dek{color:var(--c-muted);max-width:56ch;margin-top:16px;font-size:1.2rem}.byline{color:var(--c-muted);flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:6px 18px;margin-top:22px;font-size:.92rem;display:flex}.byline .av{background:var(--c-hero);width:38px;height:38px;color:var(--c-on-hero-accent);font:var(--weight-display) .95rem var(--font-display),serif;border-radius:50%;place-items:center;display:grid}.byline b{color:var(--c-ink)}.byline span{align-items:center;gap:6px;display:inline-flex}.byline .src-tag{white-space:nowrap;border:1px solid var(--c-line);border-radius:var(--radius-control);color:var(--c-ink);padding:2px 10px;font-weight:600;text-decoration:none;display:inline-block}.byline .src-tag:hover{border-color:var(--c-select);color:var(--c-text-action)}.byline .src[data-level=localCheck] .src-tag{border-color:var(--c-highlight)}.byline .src[data-level=beenThere] .src-tag{border-color:var(--c-positive)}.phero .ph{aspect-ratio:21/9;border-radius:var(--radius-panel)}.pgrid>*{min-width:0}.pgrid{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 300px;align-items:start;gap:clamp(32px,5vw,72px);padding-block:40px 80px;display:grid}@media (max-width:1000px){.pgrid{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.rail{top:calc(env(safe-area-inset-top,0px) + 86px);gap:18px;display:grid;position:sticky}@media (max-width:1000px){.rail{order:-1;position:static}}.tocbox{background:var(--c-surface);border:1px solid var(--c-line);border-radius:var(--radius-card);padding:18px}.tocbox .top{align-items:center;gap:12px;margin-bottom:10px;display:flex}.tocbox .top b{font:var(--weight-display) 1.1rem var(--font-display),serif}.tocbox .top .mono{color:var(--c-muted);margin-left:auto}.needle{flex:none;width:44px;height:44px}.needle .n{transform:rotate(calc(var(--read,0) * 180deg));transform-origin:0 0;transition:transform .15s linear}.toc{overscroll-behavior:contain;gap:1px;min-height:160px;max-height:min(52vh,100vh - 380px);margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none;display:grid;overflow:auto}.toc a{color:var(--c-muted);border-radius:8px;grid-template-columns:14px minmax(0,1fr);align-items:baseline;gap:10px;padding:6px;font-size:.9rem;text-decoration:none;display:grid}.toc a:before{content:"";border:1.5px solid var(--c-select);width:8px;height:8px;margin-top:2px;transform:rotate(45deg)}.toc a:hover{color:var(--c-ink)}.toc a.on{color:var(--c-ink);background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--c-select) 16%,transparent);font-weight:700}.toc a.on:before{background:var(--c-accent);border-color:var(--c-text-action)}@media (max-width:1000px){.toc{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;max-height:none}.tocbox .needle{display:none}}@media (max-width:560px){.toc{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.railcta{background:var(--c-hero);color:var(--c-on-hero);border-radius:var(--radius-card);gap:10px;padding:18px;display:grid}.railcta p{color:var(--c-on-hero-muted);font-size:.92rem}@media (max-width:1000px){.railcta{display:none}}.progress{left:0;top:env(safe-area-inset-top,0px);transform-origin:0 0;width:100%;height:3px;transform:scaleX(var(--read,0));background:var(--c-accent);z-index:40;position:fixed}.art{font:400 1.12rem/1.72 var(--font-article),Georgia,serif;max-width:var(--measure-article)}.art p+p{margin-top:1em}.art h2{margin-bottom:14px;font-size:clamp(1.6rem,2.6vw,2.1rem)}.art .lead p{font-size:1.2rem}.art .asec,.art .quick,.art .afaq,.art .related,.art .author{margin-top:56px;scroll-margin-top:100px}.win{font:600 .8rem var(--font-ui),sans-serif;border-radius:var(--radius-control);background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--c-compare-a) 12%,transparent);color:var(--c-compare-a-text);align-items:center;gap:8px;margin-bottom:14px;padding:.35em .8em .35em .5em;display:inline-flex}.win:before{content:"";background:var(--c-highlight);width:10px;height:10px;transform:rotate(45deg)}.win.m{background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--c-compare-b) 12%,transparent);color:var(--c-compare-b-text)}.art .quick{background:var(--c-surface);border:1px solid var(--c-line);border-radius:var(--radius-panel);padding:24px 26px}.qgrid{font:400 .98rem/1.55 var(--font-ui),sans-serif;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:18px;display:grid}.qa h3{color:var(--c-text-action);margin-bottom:6px;font-size:1.05rem}.qa p{color:var(--c-muted)}@media (max-width:760px){.qgrid{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.score{font:500 .9rem var(--font-ui),sans-serif;margin:6px 0 18px}.score .bar{border-radius:var(--radius-control);gap:2px;height:14px;display:flex;overflow:hidden}.score .bar i{display:block}.score .n,.score .legend .n{background:var(--c-compare-a)}.score .m{background:var(--c-compare-b)}.score .t{background:var(--c-highlight)}.score .legend{color:var(--c-muted);gap:18px;margin-top:8px;display:flex}.score .legend i{border-radius:50%;width:10px;height:10px;margin-right:6px;display:inline-block}.dtable{border-collapse:collapse;width:100%;font:400 .95rem/1.45 var(--font-ui),sans-serif;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;min-width:520px}.dtable th,.dtable td{border-bottom:1px solid var(--c-line);text-align:left;vertical-align:top;padding:11px 12px}.dtable thead th{border-bottom:2px solid var(--c-ink);font-weight:700}.dtable tbody th{font-weight:600}.dtable td{color:var(--c-muted)}.expert{border-radius:var(--radius-panel);background:var(--c-hero);color:var(--c-on-hero);margin:26px 0 0;padding:22px 24px;font-size:1.15rem}.expert footer{font:500 .88rem var(--font-ui),sans-serif;color:var(--c-on-hero-muted);margin-top:10px}.expert footer b{color:var(--c-on-hero-accent)}.tours,.ferry,.planner-inline{border-radius:var(--radius-panel);font:400 .98rem/1.5 var(--font-ui),sans-serif;margin-top:26px}.tours{border:1.5px solid var(--c-highlight);background:var(--c-surface);gap:10px;padding:20px 22px;display:grid}.tours h3{font-size:1.2rem}.tours>p{color:var(--c-muted)}.tours ul{margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none}.tours li{border-top:1px solid var(--c-line);justify-content:space-between;gap:12px;padding:9px 0;display:flex}.tours .rt{white-space:nowrap;align-items:center;gap:4px;font-weight:700;display:inline-flex}.tours .rt .ic{color:var(--c-highlight);width:.95em}.tours .rt small{color:var(--c-muted);font-weight:500}.tours .btn{justify-self:start;margin-top:6px}.ferry{background:var(--c-highlight);color:var(--c-on-highlight);flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:14px;padding:20px 22px;display:flex}.ferry .btn{background:var(--c-on-highlight);color:var(--c-highlight)}.ferry p{margin-top:4px}.types{font:400 .95rem/1.5 var(--font-ui),sans-serif;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:12px;margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none;display:grid}.types li{border:1px solid var(--c-line);border-radius:var(--radius-inset);background:var(--c-surface);padding:14px 16px}.types .tt{margin-bottom:6px;font-weight:700;display:block}.types .win{margin-bottom:6px}.types p{color:var(--c-muted)}@media (max-width:600px){.types{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.days{border-left:2px dashed var(--c-accent);font:400 1rem/1.5 var(--font-ui),sans-serif;margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none}.days li{padding:0 0 18px 22px;position:relative}.days li:before{content:"";background:var(--c-highlight);width:12px;height:12px;position:absolute;top:6px;left:-7px;transform:rotate(45deg)}.days .dd{font:500 .76rem var(--font-data),monospace;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.05em;color:var(--c-highlight-text)}.days p{color:var(--c-ink)}.planner-inline{background:var(--c-hero);color:var(--c-on-hero);flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:14px;margin-top:56px;padding:22px 24px;display:flex}.planner-inline p{color:var(--c-on-hero-muted);max-width:44ch}.author{font:400 .98rem/1.55 var(--font-ui),sans-serif;border-top:2px solid var(--c-ink);grid-template-columns:72px minmax(0,1fr);gap:18px;padding-top:26px;display:grid}.author .avatar{background:var(--c-hero);width:72px;height:72px;color:var(--c-on-hero-accent);font:var(--weight-display) 1.5rem var(--font-display),serif;border-radius:50%;place-items:center;display:grid}.author h2{margin-bottom:2px!important;font-size:1.5rem!important}.author .role{color:var(--c-highlight-text);margin-bottom:8px;font-weight:600}.author p{color:var(--c-muted)}.team{flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin:12px 0 0;padding:0;list-style:none;display:flex}.team li{border:1px solid var(--c-line);border-radius:var(--radius-control);gap:6px;padding:5px 12px;font-size:.86rem;display:flex}.team span{color:var(--c-muted)}.art .afaq{font:400 1rem/1.55 var(--font-ui),sans-serif}.relgrid{font-family:var(--font-ui),sans-serif;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:12px;display:grid}.rel{border:1px solid var(--c-line);border-radius:var(--radius-inset);background:var(--c-surface);gap:4px;padding:16px 18px;text-decoration:none;display:grid}.rel b{font:var(--weight-display) 1.08rem var(--font-display),serif}.rel:hover{border-color:var(--c-select)}.disclosure{font:400 .85rem/1.5 var(--font-ui),sans-serif;color:var(--c-muted);margin-top:36px!important}@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){*{transition:none!important;animation:none!important}}.art h3.sub{font:var(--weight-display) 1.3rem var(--font-display),serif;margin:30px 0 12px}.art .note{font:400 .92rem/1.5 var(--font-ui),sans-serif;color:var(--c-muted);margin-top:12px}.num{white-space:nowrap;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;text-align:right!important}.tips{font:400 .96rem/1.5 var(--font-ui),sans-serif;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:12px;margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none;display:grid}.tips li{background:var(--c-surface);border:1px solid var(--c-line);border-radius:var(--radius-inset);padding:16px 18px}.tips h3{margin-bottom:6px;font-size:1.1rem}.tips p{color:var(--c-muted)}@media (max-width:600px){.tips{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.insure{border:1.5px dashed var(--c-line);border-radius:var(--radius-panel);font:400 .96rem/1.5 var(--font-ui),sans-serif;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:14px;margin-top:22px;padding:18px 22px;display:flex}.insure p{color:var(--c-muted);max-width:44ch;margin-top:4px}.glance{background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--c-on-hero) 20%,transparent);border:1px solid color-mix(in srgb,var(--c-on-hero) 20%,transparent);border-radius:var(--radius-inset);grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:1px;margin:20px 0 0;display:grid;overflow:hidden}.glance div{background:var(--c-hero-2);padding:12px 14px}.glance dt{font:500 .7rem var(--font-data),monospace;letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--c-on-hero-muted)}.glance dd{margin:4px 0 0;font-weight:600}.dtable th small{color:var(--c-muted);font-size:.82rem;font-weight:500;display:block}.update{background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--c-highlight) 18%,var(--c-surface));border-radius:var(--radius-card);font:400 .95rem/1.5 var(--font-ui),sans-serif;border-left:0;margin-top:24px;padding:16px 20px}.update h3{margin-bottom:6px;font-size:1.1rem}.update ul{margin:0;padding-left:1.1em}.hcard{background:var(--c-surface);border:1px solid var(--c-line);border-radius:var(--radius-panel);font:400 .95rem/1.5 var(--font-ui),sans-serif;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,5fr) minmax(0,7fr);scroll-margin-top:100px;transition:border-color .3s,opacity .3s;display:grid;overflow:hidden}.hcard[hidden]{display:none}.hcard.flash{border-color:var(--c-select);box-shadow:0 0 0 3px color-mix(in srgb,var(--c-select) 35%,transparent)}.hcard .ph{aspect-ratio:auto;height:100%;min-height:220px}.hcard h3{font-size:1.5rem}.hcard .btn{justify-self:start}@media (max-width:760px){.hcard{grid-template-columns:1fr}.hcard .ph{aspect-ratio:16/9;min-height:0}}}